5 Tips for Acne-Safe Exfoliation

IN THIS ARTICLE:

• 01 Are you over-exfoliating?
  02 Use a barrier repair cream after each exfoliating treatment
  03 Consider microdermabrasion
  04 Start slow
  05 Finish with SPF
  06 What is the best exfoliator for acne?
  07 How often should I exfoliate if I have acne?
  08 Can over-exfoliation cause acne?
  09 The takeaway

4-minute read

Acne is not just a cosmetic concern - for many, it’s a debilitating skin condition with a broad physical and psychological impact. Many suffer from acne right into adulthood, the myth that acne impacts only teenage skin remains just that: a myth. For the acne-prone among us - the word ‘exfoliation’ alone may be enough to send a chill down your spine. Maybe you’ve been traumatized by the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant that seems to have us in a skincare chokehold. Or perhaps your unease comes from the days when highly popularized facial scrubs featured large, irregularly shaped particulars turning your skincare into more battle than bliss.

Whatever toll exfoliation has taken on your acne-prone skin, we’re here with 5 tips to help nurture your skin barrier while still enjoying the benefits of exfoliation.

1. Are you over-exfoliating?

Over-exfoliating is quite common, especially with acne-prone skin. Exfoliants such as salicylic acid, a BHA exfoliating ingredient are found in acne-specific skincare. For example, many cleansers contain salicylic or glycolic acid. Simply washing your face twice per day with a product containing exfoliants may mean you are overdoing it and potentially damaging your skin barrier. Many toning products also contain exfoliating ingredients. We recommend checking all your topical skincare products to ensure they contain gentle ingredients, topicals containing exfoliants should only be used 1-2 times per week.

2. Use a barrier repair cream after each exfoliating treatment

While exfoliation is designed to slough away dead skin cells and trigger cellular rejuvenation - it can also leave the skin vulnerable to external stressors, especially directly after treatment. Make sure you use a thick barrier repair cream directly after exfoliating to heal the skin barrier and help the skin retain important moisture.

3. Consider microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a type of mechanical exfoliation that uses diamond-encrusted tips to remove the outer layer of the skin. Like chemical exfoliation, it is designed to unclog pores and brighten the skin. The advantage of microdermabrasion is that the intensity level of your treatment can easily be tailored depending on what stage of your breakout you may be at. With three intensity levels, the Project E Beauty microdermabrasion wand can be easily used on specific parts of the face, perfect for managing acne-prone areas while leaving others untouched. It's important to be gentle on active breakouts to prevent further flaking, redness and inflammation. Strong acids like BHA or AHA don't allow you to tailor or adjust the treatment to your skin's needs on any given day. Microdermabrasion is also highly effective at removing deep-seated impurities from the pores, helping to prevent future breakouts.

Project E Beauty

Reinvo | Facial Microdermabrasion Wand

Mechanical exfoliation technique using diamond-encrusted tips to reveal a smooth and bright complexion.

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4. Start Slow

If you're new to exfoliation or have paused to let your skin heal, reintroduce it gradually by starting once a week and increasing frequency over time as your skin adjusts. You may need to temporarily stop other activities such as retinol or vitamin C for a short period to prevent any adverse reaction. While retinol and other vitamin A derivatives are not technically exfoliants, they are anti-oxidants that promote skin turnover and have a similar impact on the skin.

5. Finish with SPF

After exfoliating it is essential to use a broad-spectrum SPF on the skin to prevent unwanted sun damage from harsh UV rays. As stated, exfoliation works by temporarily removing the top layer of skin or stratum corneum, while this layer regenerates it’s important to protect the skin from environmental stressors, especially the sun. SPF should be a central step in any skincare routine, with extra attention given to reapplying SPF in the days following exfoliation treatments.

What is the best exfoliator for acne?

Microdermabrasion is the best physical exfoliator for acne while BHA is the best chemical exfoliant for acne-prone skin. BHAs such as salicylic acid penetrate below the surface of the skin to remove impurities and clear acne.

How often should I exfoliate my skin if I have acne?

If you are new to exfoliating, start with once per week increasing as your skin adjusts. You should only exfoliate your skin a maximum of three times per week.

Can over-exfoliation cause acne?

Why do I break out more when I exfoliate? Over-exfoliating strips the skin’s natural oils leading to increased oil production and clogged pores.

The Takeaway

Harsh exfoliating ingredients such as BHA and AHA are often marketed to acne-prone skin and can lead to dryness, flakiness, and enduring damage to the skin barrier. BHA and AHA are powerful ingredients when used correctly, but overuse, especially on acne-prone skin can cause long-term damage to the skin. By using gentle techniques, starting slow, and prioritizing skin barrier repair and sun protection, you can enjoy the benefits of exfoliation without risking irritation or breakouts. Whether you opt for microdermabrasion or a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid, consistency and moderation are key. Remember, healthy, glowing skin starts with listening to your gut - and your skin.

written by Charlotte Rycroft